This place was a mecca of smells, colors and sounds that you just don't really experience (at all) in the more up-scale shopping districts of Dubai, ie. malls, boulevards, boutiques, high-end dukkans, etc. Even if you wander into Al Jaber Trading Company or the Camel Company in the malls, seeking out hand-carved wooden camels or silk & cotton Pakistani & Indian rugs, you don't experience the life behind these items. In the souks, it is a totally different story.
People are moving fast, rummaging through shoes, t-shirts and pashminas, tossing aside each handful as though they know there is a better treasure lurking below. They are seasoned veterans at this, clearly. There is an overall smell of must and body oder mixed with strong Arabian perfumes, and the colors could blind you, they are so bright. And the shop workers (not sure I can call them owners, since I am not sure who owns what around here) can sniff out a prime shopping suspect like no other: Giuseppe and I apparently had "Come and get me" written across our foreheads. We had men walking blocks to try and lure us into their shops, selling the "best fake bags and watches you have ever seen," as if they had a tracking device watching our every step. And who can blame a man who sells the best fake anything...you gotta give him credit for taking pride in what he sells, fake or not.
Let me first say that our overall experience was one that will have me going back for more. I will take a day at the textile souk any day over a day at Harvey Nichols or H&M - well almost. But this time, I am bringing my own calculator. Bargain is the name of the game in these souks. They got the goods for nil and they want dollars - in fact, when you say 200 to their 240, they say "dollars?" knowing straight-away that you mean dirhams. Can't blame a man for trying.
This is how Giuseppe fairly summed up our shopping extravaganza: we got screwed at our first stop, bargained down the price at our second and were near pros by our last. Our last stop was the most fun: we promised to purchase 5-6 items (Christmas gifts, so I can't say) for AED 200 ($54) and when they wanted more, we walked, saying we didn't want any of it then. And you know we got that last hand-carved multi-compartment wooden jewelry box (that was for moi) thrown in our bag quicker than you can say 'cha-ching.'
Here are some images of our trip on the dhow through Dubai Creek (on either side lives Bur Dubai & Deira, where we explored)the souk, the goods and our favorite finds:
Check out all our pictures of Bur Dubai and Deira on flickr.
Love d:)
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